1890 fashion
leg o'mutton sleeves, patterns, resources for costuming
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Lizzie’s fashionable trial hat
Some of the most revealing images of Lizzie appear in the brilliant newspaper cartoons and sketches found in various newspaper coverage of her 1893 trial. The description of items in her dress closet and observations made by others as to the neatness of her dress reveal a lady who knew what was fashionable. She may not have possessed a closet filled with Worth ballgowns, but she certainly knew the latest styles in headwear and sleeves.
The “chip hat” shown here in a trial cartoon used on the cover of Lizzie Borden Past and Present was all the rage in 1893. Hats had to accommodate the bun of back hair or elegant French twist seen in this flattering image.
Although the hat does have the look of a “chip” with the back end tilted upward, chip actually refers to a machine made summer weave. The best plaited weaves of straw or thin willow wood came from Italy.
“In the valley of the Po River in northern Italy grow slender willow trees. From these trees are made chip braids—the only wood braid that is used to any extent in millinery. The young tree is split into sections, planed smooth and cut into fine strips. When these strips are planed off, a thin chip is formed.
There are many advantages to a chip hat. In the first place, it is extremely light in weight, smooth and attractive. It has a delightful soft, dull finish. A decided advantage of chip is its inexpensiveness. However it is not a durable material and does not wear as well as hemp or milan. ” http://www.vintagesewing.info/1920s/28-mhd/mhd-03.html
The embellishment on hats of this period tend to be on the strong vertical line and toward the center to front of the hat: feathers, bows, birds and fruit often being the trims of choice.
Grand Tour travel ensemble, chip hat
(L) Exaggerated chip hat, early 1890s from The Delineator
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Halloween must be coming
The upscale catalogue, Victorian Trading Company http://www.victoriantradingco.com/index.html is offering one of the nicest Lizzie Borden costumes on the market, complete with large axe and a cunning little hat. The calico two-piece ensemble is well-made and makes some of the other Lizzie costumes look- well, tawdry in comparison. This little number would be perfectly in style for those hot August mornings as well. Victorian Trading Co. offers thousands of Victorian-inspired home decor, holiday, fashion, and stationery items.
This notoriously wicked woman is accessorized with the weapon that wiped out her unfortunate family in forty whacks. Includes: Authentic Victorian day dress in a mustard print featuring exaggerated poufed sleeves on the shirtwaist with antiqued metal buttons and pleated skirt back, authentic hat design with elastic chin strap and long netted veil, and of course, her trusty axe. #i12092 $149.95 -
Introducing the Demure Mrs. Daphne Dare, Domestic Doyenne
It is hard to know if such a paragon of wisdom, style and taste ever did exist, but a certain Mrs. Dare, in 1892, published several works outlining all manner of directions and advice for living a proper and gracious life. From cradle to grave Mrs. Dare deigns to declare her decided designs and directions on how to move in “polite society”. The divine Daphne will be making regular visits to Warps and Wefts to enlighten the Gentle Readers here, and to offer advice on those pressing matters and anxious questions which plague the thoughts of all those who wish to step out on the right foot in finer circles. Tonight, the use of umbrellas is given thoughtful attention:” If a gentleman is walking with two ladies in a rainstorm, and there is but one umbrella, he must yield it to his fair companion and walk outside. To do otherwise is absurd, for if he should walk between the two ladies he would be perfectly protected himself, but the ladies would get the benefit of the innumerable little streams running off the sides of the umbrella. A gentleman never stops a lady on the street to converse with her, but will turn and walk by her side. If she should be accompanied by a male companion, it is well to be sure that your presence will not be an interference before venturing to join them in their promenade.”
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Lizzie’s leg o’ mutton sleeves
Most people, when they make a mental image of Lizzie Borden, have the famous photo of Lizzie in Newport at the Covell house on the porch in mind. Lizzie stands triumphantly behind a chair with those voluminous leg o’ mutton sleeves ballooning from her blouse. Vintage duds from antique shops are usually too fragile to be worn today although vintage jewelry, shawls and small accessories can add age to simple outfits. By 1892, the leg o’ mutton sleeve was all the rage, and would continue to grow to enormous proportions until 1896 when the sleeve grew to ridiculous size. What is a leg o’ mutton? A wide- topped sleeve gathered into a tapered cuff fits the bill- and it does look like a real sheep leg, or the French “gigot” sounds more elegant. And the sheep does not mind a bit!
Many pattern books offer 1890’s patterns in the costume section, and many such as Butterick’s and Simplicity and McCall’s offer historical patterns based on real vintage pattern books. Butterick’s has a particularly nice leg o’ mutton blouse pattern# B4418 which comes with a companion 7 gore skirt. Skirts from the 1890’s are wonderfully comfortable with a wide “morning glory” bottom and a smooth- fitted hip and waist. This simple duo can be dressed up with jewelry and accessories which would make
the perfect ensemble. For those not handy with a needle, many ready-made options may be found on the Internet. Blanche’s place www.blanchesplace.com offers a spectacular array of men’s and ladies’ garments including ball gowns, corsets, blouses, walking suits, calicoes, taffetas, accessories and more in a wide range of prices. Here is a Blanche creation fit for Rock Street!
